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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.